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Author Topic: Oil change and Warranty  (Read 8722 times)
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phaeton16
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« on: May 31, 2012, 07:55:39 AM »

This is probably a dumb question but if I do my own oil change and go with synthetic oil will this affect my warranty ? Do I have to keep my own records ?
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« Reply #1 on: May 31, 2012, 08:13:15 AM »

It won't affect your warranty.
Just keep receipts for oil and filters and keep a log of oil change dates and mileage.
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« Reply #2 on: May 31, 2012, 11:25:04 AM »

Onstar should also be a source of mileage and dates for oil changes.
It will also show the OLM reading.
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« Reply #3 on: May 31, 2012, 12:40:03 PM »

I keep receipts for oil and filter.
For each oil change- I print out a form with the following

Date oil changed
miles on engine,
miles on oil,
OLM reading

And may add a line or 2 on whether oil was low (I measure what comes out).

I will also attach the printout of a UOA- if one was done on that oil removed.

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« Reply #4 on: May 31, 2012, 01:53:11 PM »

Also make sure you use Dexos rated oil if it is a new Terrain or Nox.

GM requires this now. Mobil One and most good brands are already rated this way.
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bowtieman
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« Reply #5 on: May 31, 2012, 01:55:30 PM »

Onstar should also be a source of mileage and dates for oil changes.
It will also show the OLM reading.

Yea I track my on Onstar's site but to me it needs a way better user interface for this. It's kinda vague and needs more options for notes, but it's a good way to keep track.
I also wrote it down in the place back part of the manual.
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« Reply #6 on: May 31, 2012, 10:14:01 PM »

This is probably a dumb question but if I do my own oil change and go with synthetic oil will this affect my warranty ? Do I have to keep my own records ?

Records for oil changes wouldn't hurt, the engine module keeps track also by various sensors, one being the oil pressure. It knows when the oil gets dropped out as the oil pick up won't register min. pressure for a few secs after start up.
The GM Techs can pull these records up so if you misplace a few receipts here and there over the yrs not a huge deal. We buy our oil in cases and multiple filters at a time so as long as we record the date we're good to go. 
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« Reply #7 on: June 01, 2012, 07:08:00 AM »

Magnuson-Moss warranty act enacted by congress in 1975. I'll let you research it on your own, but basically it protects consumers from being denied factory warranty service due to maintenance/repairs that were not done at an authorized dealership or parent company. Of course there are limitations, (such as radical mods) but oil changes done by yourself or anyone else is fine..
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« Reply #8 on: June 01, 2012, 12:08:06 PM »

Also while under warranty--
You may want to stick with ACDELCO filters.
I am on my Traverse. Ive had about 4 or 5 UOA and the ACDelco PF-48 does a good job of filtering- so I have no need for more expensive filters.
The PF-48 can be found at WalMart for about $4.

I dont think Ive seen enough UOA on here to see how well the ACDelcos do in the Nox's/terrains.

But I was aware of a bulletin from GM for engine noise . They are to check for aftermarket filters and whether the filters fell apart. If so- they are to deny warranty.

No need to rock the warranty boat- when the ACD filter works nice and is priced right.....

An example of warranty denial was just posted on the Outlook forum...

http://www.saturnoutlookforum.net/index.php?topic=2308.msg10587;topicseen#new


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« Reply #9 on: June 01, 2012, 12:11:52 PM »

Actually applies to Nox's and terrains too...
Im sure its been updated to include the 11's and 12's.

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 Acadia; AURA; Enclave; Equinox; G6; LaCrosse; Malibu; OUTLOOK; Rendezvous; SRX; Terrain; Torrent; Traverse; VUE --Internal engine noise or damage after oil filter replacement
 When diagnosing engine noises, check aftermarket oil filter cartridges for oil starvation
 Do not perform warranty repairs when the damage was caused by an aftermarket oil filter
 10-06-01-003A
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« Reply #10 on: June 01, 2012, 05:17:51 PM »

My recommendation...there is no need to use conventional or AC Delco (half conventional/half synthetic).  

I will always use 100% synthetic Mobil1 5W-30 in my '12 Equinox V6.

The biggest difference between regular oil and synthetic oil is wax in oil.

Example- take a candle, light it, put a piece of paper above flame of candle (not to burn it).  Result- black wax/soot build up, right?  Same for regular engine oil (sludge).

Synthetic oil does not have the wax like regular oil.  Use Mobil 1 synthetic, most Chevy dealerships will allow you to bring ur own oil to dealership (if they dont carry Mobil 1 Syn)

to use if you want to pay for filter, labor to change.

And, I ALWAYS change synthetic oil every 3000 to 4000 miles.  Engines love fresh oil.

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« Reply #11 on: June 01, 2012, 05:59:35 PM »

My recommendation...there is no need to use regular or Dexos (half regular/half synthetic).  

I will always use 100% synthetic Mobil1 5W-30 in my '12 Equinox V6.

The biggest difference between regular oil and synthetic oil is wax in oil.

Example- take a candle, light it, put a piece of paper above flame of candle (not to burn it).  Result- black wax/soot build up, right?  Same for regular engine oil (sludge).

Synthetic oil does not have the wax like regular oil.  Use Mobil 1 synthetic, most Chevy dealerships will allow you to bring ur own oil to dealership (if they dont carry Mobil 1 Syn)

to use if you want to pay for filter, labor to change.

And, I ALWAYS change synthetic oil every 3000 to 4000 miles.  Engines love fresh oil.




  Wax in oil..?  Soot is sludge? Never heard of that.
 Change Mobile1 every 3-4,000 mi.? They gotta love customers like that..!
  Here's a 10 yr old article about how long you can and should run Mobile1 syn before changing...that I've posted before.
    Take it for what it's worth...
  
      http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/stories/mobil1.html
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« Reply #12 on: June 01, 2012, 06:57:00 PM »

-Synthetic oil is chemically produced, no contaminants in oil.  In contrast, conventional oils contain small amounts of sulfur, wax, asphaltic material (promotes sludge buildup)

-With no wax, Synthetics will flow at much lower, colder temps, and withstand higher engine temperatures (conventional oils easily oxidize in extreme heat).

Used burning candle as an example to show what is created when heat put to wax, sorry for confusion.
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« Reply #13 on: June 01, 2012, 09:02:09 PM »

Ive read that the US version of Mobil 1 is not a true synthetic,
the European spec is true synthetic---

(I believe this was posted on Bob is the oil guy...)...

but I Just saw a post- from an owner that fixed his own transmissions and other stuff on his 3.6 Acadia.
He had only used Mobil 1.
When he took apart the engine--- he found sludge.... which is surprissing because he says he only used Mobil 1.

heres the thread.

http://www.acadiaforum.net/index.php?topic=10976.0


pics he posted.  he had 3 more in that thread besides these





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« Reply #14 on: June 01, 2012, 09:33:00 PM »

I don't doubt that even the mighty Mobil-1 will leave varnish in an engine. I'm skeptical of the sludge claim though.

How does he drive? Lot's of stop and go will lead to sludge, not sure if that's the case with M-1.

Most Mobil 1 products are largely synthetic. European spec oils are superior to U.S., but that doesn't mean the brand name synthetics aren't
true synthetic.  Castrol does offer 'so called' 'synthetics', that means it's highly refined conventional oils(German Castrol is the exception). Some U.S. syn oils are as well.
That doesn't make them any less superior to conventionals or blends.
 SOME M-1 oils are partly highly processed conventional oils and some are true synthetics. Many of their products are a blend of both types.
No way, from what I've read to tell which is which. Certainly the 0W-20 and 30 are true synthetics.
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« Reply #15 on: June 02, 2012, 05:03:21 AM »

phaeton16-

To answer your question, owners manual states to use licenced engine oils with the dexos1 approved certification mark/ SAE 5W-30 best viscosity grade for vehicle.

Here are some brand names that should have the dexos1 approved certification logo on oil bottles include:

ACDelco dexos1 SAE 5W-30
Mobil1 5W-30 Synthetic (see mobile1 website, dexos1 certified)
Mobil1 Extended Performance 5W-30
Mobil Super 3000 Formula D1 5W-30
Penzoil 5W-30 (Syn)
Quaker State Syn Blend 5W-30
Quaker State Ultimate Durability Full Syn 5W-30
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« Reply #16 on: June 02, 2012, 06:14:24 AM »


QUOTE: "And, I ALWAYS change synthetic oil every 3000 to 4000 miles.  Engines love fresh oil."


Well, the oil companies love you my friend.

There is absolutely no reason to change regular oil that often much less synthetic oil. I'm curious as to how you came up with 3-4000 miles? Why not every 1000 miles? Wouldn't that be even better?

The oil companies and quick oil change places still recommend 3000 mile oil changes but no one can say where this mythical 3000 mile interval came from. 20 years ago it may have had some merit but with the advances in oil technology plus the advances in engines and computer management it no longer has any validity.

Changing oil based on "that's what my dad taught me" certainly won't hurt anything (except your wallet) but it's entirely unnecessary in this day and age. If it gives you peace of mind that's fine but just be aware there is no logical reason to do so.
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« Reply #17 on: June 02, 2012, 06:59:17 AM »

-Black Granite

If thats your preference.  Depends on how you drive and how long you plan to keep the vehicle.  Manual states oil change (if needed) every 7500miles.  GM doesnt know how I drive (love hearing that V6 roar!)

Yes, your correct, it would be more wallet pain, but common sense tells me changing the oil more frequently=cleaner engine (long term)=constant engine oil pressure=better performance.

From Mobil:
As a car is driven, the level of contamination in the motor oil constantly increases. The oil filter removes particles as the oil passes through the filter, but over time an oil's additives are used up and the oil itself can start to degrade (oxidize or thicken). At that point, the oil can no longer do its job and must be changed. The rate at which contamination and additive depletion occurs depends on many variables. One of these is driving conditions, which vary greatly and have a direct effect on the useful life of the oil. Other factors include the precision of ignition, fuel injection or carburetion adjustments, air cleaner service and the general mechanical condition of the engine. Oil should be changed before the contamination level reaches the point where engine damage can result. Because it is difficult for the individual motorist to determine when the contamination level is too high, automobile manufacturers provide recommended oil change intervals. These change recommendations vary by model year and manufacturer. Recommended intervals and mileage limits also vary with the type of service under which a car operates. More frequent oil changes are recommended for severe service.
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« Reply #18 on: June 02, 2012, 07:00:11 AM »

My Grand Dad used to change tires every 15,000 miles because the old Bias belt tires would be worn out. Oils and engines back then would use up oil in 3K-4K miles.

Today it is a different ball game.

Life of many things on a car and including the car is much longer. It used to be 100,000 many cars needed a lot of work and today people are getting 200K and 300K with only minor fixes. At one time changing piston rings was a must and when was the last time someone here had to change rings on a regular street driven car.
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phaeton16
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« Reply #19 on: June 02, 2012, 04:39:26 PM »

Ok so we have my question answered what about the claim by rbarrios that I have to use ACDELCO filters, I was going to use Wix and change the filter between oil changes and go with Synthetic, Mobil 1 or Pennzoil platinum .
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